We came to Hasankeyf expecting to stay one night. The city's primary draw is an ancient town set high on rock cliffs. As we drove into town we were greeted immediately by hawkers selling picture books. As we strolled into town bus loads of tourists poured into the single street heading towards the kale eager to buy a souvenier and get back on the road. But a quick right turn from the tourists and across the bridge spanning the Tigris River and we were in the middle of a herd of sheep heading home from a day of grazing in the upper hills surrounding the town. The next morning we followed the same route, connecting with a group of women heading to upper pastures to milk, by hand, a herd of some 3-400 sheep and goats. From there we were welcomed into their homes, fed handmade cheeses and freshly made ayran and watched them make bread in a tandoor oven. Four days later we are sad to be leaving. Sad too for the future of Hasankeyf and the life of its' residents. Turkey is currently constructing a dam that will flood Hasankeyf. The timing for the flooding is still a little sketchy but construction is well and truly underway. We will return to Hasankeyf, hopefully later in the year. There is so much more to this area that could not take in in such a short amount of time.