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I'm Here (and There)..

Hey All - So it may look like I've fallen off the globe but in fact I've been trotting on a fair bit of it. New work for Saveur  and Feast plus work on that Turkey cookbook with a side trip to Georgia for an upcoming story. But, after freelancing for six years now I can say that it's still a thrill to see my work in print. 

In the fall of 2012 I had the great pleasure to travel to Italy with Saveur Senior editor Betsy Andrews where we sampled the finest in Umbria food, wine and hospitality. The article appears in the November, 2014 issue in print here and abbreviated on line here. It is always great to work with Saveur. You can see additional work from me in the India issue as well as images from Italy (above),Chengdu and Turkey for the A Day in Cooking issue.


(above : Scenes from Umbria)

 

February, 2014 saw me traveling to Mexico City and Oaxaca for the October, 2014 issue of Feast. It is great to work for Feast. They give me so much flexiblity to craft the story and the Mexico piece was no exception. This was my second visit to Mexico City confirming that I might just need to spend more time there. Wonderful place.

(above : Tamale stand at sunrise in Mexico City).

(above : Carnitas in Oaxaca)

In August I traveled to Hong Kong for the November, 2014 issue of Feast where I got to meet the legendary Mrs. So of Sing Wa X.O. Sauce fame and basically eat my way across the island in the name of work (hey, somebody's got to do it). The article, written by Janice Leung Hayes

This was my first trip back to Hong Kong in number of years. The article, written by Janice Leung Hayes takes place largely in the Western District which  is famous for its' dried seafood shops. When I lived in Hong Kong in the mid 1990's Western was the end of the line, like a back water town next to the thriving Central District metropolis. That, of course, has all changed now as the expansion of the MRT has made Western the hip place to live. Still it was nice to find pockets of the city that remind of the HK back in the day. 

Above : One of the great pleasures of the trip were my multiple visits to Lin Heung Kui for dim sum. I could not believe how warm and welcoming people were there (these are words I thought I would never utter in regards to Hong Kong). Great dim sum in a setting that is like a throw back to the 1960's. Thanks Janice for that tip!

While working on our Turkey cookbook, I have been following a side obsession with eastern Turkey's wood fired ovens. Swing over to Zester Daily for a slide show to see what's happening in all things gluten. 

Want more? I'm on Instagram! Follow me for the latest. See ya.

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Penang for Feast Magazine

I love traveling and I love travel photography but there is always something nice when you can do travel photography with leaving home which is what I did for a feature on Penang street food in this month's SBS Feast Magazine.

 (Above : Asam laksa from two lovely sisters on Erskine Road, Tanjung Tokong, Penang). 

(Above : Diners wanted. Chilies to be served along side koay teow th'ng (noodle soup)).

(Above : Poh Lay Koay Teow Th'ng. Conveniently located half a block from my house. Nice folks, too!).

(Above : The Legend - Mdm Soon Suan Choo and her char koay teow. I went to her shop the first time I came to Penang in 2006. At that time people warned me that she was a tough character along the lines of Sienfeld's 'Soup Nazi' but I behaved myself, got served and paid the 'outrageous' sum of RM8 (about U$2.50 - most versions are about a dollar) for a plate. Today, looking back it is still a great version (I'm not one to say best..it's all subjective) and frankly she may have mellowed a bit letting me hang over her wok for 30 minutes or so to get the shot above. Something I wouldn't have imagined happening when I first visited her in 2006).

(Above : My favorite vendor in Chow Rasta Market convinces a tough customer that his greens are the freshest by snapping the stem). 

(Above :  Butchers in Chow Rasta Market work in the early evening to break down hog carcasses for local restaurants.) 

(Above : The action goes well into the night. In Penang many vendors still use charcoal for cooking).

(Above : the 'ol red, white and blue - Penang style.)

Want more Penang? Join me this July 18-21 for a fun filled food and travel photography workshop. Still a few places left! Check here for details. See you there!

Want to live the photographer life vicariously? Follow me on Instagram : http://instagram.com/davehagerman (@Davehagerman) or click on my Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/DavidHagermanPhotography 

Tamil Nadu for Feast

One of the frustrating aspects of this job is that assignments are always too short. That certainly was the case when I was asked to shoot location stills in Tamil Nadu for Feast Magazine's April issue (sorry, print only for now). Traveling to a new place I feel like I'm just getting in the groove when it's time to pack up and head home. 8 days in Chennai, Kariakudi and Madurai just wasn't enough. Still I have plenty of visual souvenirs until that time I'm lucky enough to get a call back.

(Above : A worshipper at a temple outside Madurai)

(Banana dealers in Madurai's morning market. This market was the highlight of the trip (in a trip with many highlights)).

 (Lunch choices at a 'mess' in Karaikudi)

(flower dealers in Chennai's Koyambedu Wholesale Market)

( a seller of curry leaves, Koyambedu Market)

(proud owner of a vintage Ambassador. Wish I could have brought one of those back).

(above / below - dosa - I ate very well).

 

(The original cubicle - a goldsmith in Chennai).

(street fashion in Chennai)

(Coffee and tea stall, Karaikudi).

(observing Karthigi - the Festival of Lights - Karaikudi).

(Deco style building in Karaikudi). 

For more work for Feast click over here and here.

Editors - if you like what you see, please send me back. There are a lot more pictures to be taken.  

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2013 - A Year in Rectangles

(Above : A vendor gets in an aerobic workout in between customers in Hanoi's Chau Long Market).

Another year passes and I'm again reminded of all the great places my camera has taken me to. Extensive travel and a workshop in Turkey, plus assigments and travel in Sri Lanka, India, Taiwan and Vietnam. A move to our newly renovated shophouse in George Town and work in my 'home town'. Everytime I push the shutter I am reminded how lucky I am to be able to do what I do. Here are a few images from the year. I hesitate to say 'best of' because frankly I am probably the worst judge of what is good or bad in my collection. What I can say about these images is that I hope that when I look back on them in a couple of years that I still remember exactly what I was feeling when I took the picture. I can't say that about every picture I take but some stick around longer than others. Let's see if these do.

(Above : An autumn moon rises over Eminnou, Istanbul)

(Above : Sunset from the 360 Degree Bar at the Bayside Hotel, Penang, Malaysia. Part of a advertising campaign I shot for Penang Global Tourism. Below : A fire burns out of control on a 'super moon' night in Detroit). 

(Above : Taipei, Taiwan for Travel & Leisure SEA. Confession time - I love George Town but I would move to Taiwan in a second if I could. Taipei is probably the most liveable city in Asia and a great jumping off point for exploring Taiwan's deep, deep culture).

(Above : Street food (char koay teow stir fried over charcoal) and a hidden shrine in George Town. Part of a personal project documenting religious shrines that dot the back alleys of George Town, Malaysia). 

(Above : Top - Fishing on the Bosphorus. Second - Barbunia fresh from the Black Sea). 

(Above : The Great Mosque of Diyarbakir on a toasty 42 degree C afternoon).

(Above : The Kadikoy ferry terminal (minus the 'ballon') at sunset. I try to end every trip to Turkey with a sunset ride on an Istanbul ferry. It never gets old). 

(Above : Colombo's Maning Street Market. I spend a lot of time in markets but Maning market blew me away. My time in Sri Lanka was way to short. Such a colorful country and truly lovely people. Hopefully, 2014 will see this story in print). 

(Above : Thaipusam in Penang  part of a customized photo walk. Below - Butchers at a pork shop in Chow Rasta market, George Town). 

 

(Above : top - Banana sellers in Madurai's morning market. Middle : Dressing to match your house (part 1), Rajakkad, Tamil Nadu. Above / Third - A worshipper at a temple outside Madurai, Tamil Nadu. India was such an eye opening experience. I need to find a way to get back there. Look for articles in early 2014 and more images on this blog to follow. Below : Tea shop in Mylapore, Chennai. Tea - but who knew India has such a big coffee culture? Check out my slideshow here in the Wall Street Journal Asia).

So what about 2014? Well, to start with we SOLD A BOOK! So look for more travels in Turkey now through 2015 (yeah). If you are looking for something to do in April join us in Sapanca, Turkey for our second cooking, food and photography workshop. I will also be doing a similar workshop in Penang mid-2014. Watch this page for details.

Beyond that - who in the heck knows? I wouldn't have it any other way. Swing on over to my Facebook page here for quick posts, tips and updates. Or follow me on Twitter @davehagerman. See ya!

 

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Turkish Grilling for Saveur Magazine

I had the good fortune to work with Ansel Mullins as we ate our way through Gaziantep meeting the Ustas behind that city's best kebabs. The results can be found in this month's Saveur. 

Given the depth of the grilling tradition in Turkey to say that an Usta is a mere masters of their trade is a great understatement. The men (all men) we met had nearly all started their kebab careers early in life. They slogged, carrying wood or fetching tea for those that they were apprenticing with. They learned butchery, developed precise techniques,honed their patience and ultimately learned how to run a successful business.  As Ansel put it 'a true Usta is a blend of celebrity chef, Zen master and humble servant". So true of everyone we met.

 

( Above: Usta Ali Gürbüz repurposed a baby carriage which he uses to transport his liver and lamb fat kebabs to his shop near the Gaziantep castle. His day typically starts at four o'clock in the morning where he serves workers and late night partiers). 

(Above : Usta Sirvan Payasli of Sirvan Baklava. He also makes a mean baklava (below) served with sheep milk kymak).

(Above : Ali nazik (kepab in yogurt) at Iman Cagcas).

(Above and below : Usta Halil began working as a youth, sleeping in a butcher's shop where he learned the trade. He passes out free lahmacun everyday to kids that drop by his shop). 

(Halil and his son, who is now part of the business).

(Above :  A young butcher). 

( Imam Cagcas is probably one of the most famous kebab restaurants in Turkey. Mr. Cagcas (above) the son of the shop's founder is unphased by the shop's notoriety). 

(Above : Usta Ali Gürbüz and his repurposed baby carriage).  



Whether from open air shops, street stalls or formal restaurants grilling in Gaziantep is king. At all times of day the air is fragranced with the aroma of the grill. 

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Probably the best time I have had on an assignment. 6 days cruising through the Aegean with little else on the agenda but food and markets. Check out the article here.

Although things are a little tense at the moment it is good to remember that Turkey is a beautiful country with warm friendly people and well, great food.  I am headed back later this week. Just can't seem to get enough of the place. 

Check out the journey with music from Mustafa Ozkent. 

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Face the Nation - Kars

Screw it - I'm going vertical.

A few years back when I was shooting this story I found myself with a dilema - amputate part of the scene or shoot vertical. Many of my photographer friends talk about verticals the way someone might sheepishly mention driving drunk into a ditch or spilling hot coffee in their lap. Some say they only take one vertical a year. I've heard others say that it just feels weird.

Typically online slide shows are geared towards horizontal frames, a vertical in the mix looks odd. It throws off the continuity. Also, you can always crop a horizontal to vertical if you absolutely need a vertical for a page layout so why not keep as much information in the frame as possible.

So my problem with the Penang shot above and below is that I just could not make a horizontal happen. Above, I was shooting a 35mm pushed against a wall. In order to clear the top of the minuret I was laying on the ground with my face pressed against the sidewalk. At sidewalk level there was a nice line of light leading to the mosque. In a perfect world I would have a person walking through the light with the line of the mosque leading the eye to the minuret (when I took the above shot a cloud had just passed in front of the sun). I could get the line and the minuret but not the light. So when the guy below walked into the frame I said mea culpa and shot a vertical.
I didn't bother submitting this vertical frame but did end up using the shot later for a print publication. It's a scene I'll need to revisit either with a wider lens or with the idea of finding anther vantage point if I want to get it all in a horizontal.

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Koh Phangan for the New York Times : 46 Places to Go in 2013

 

('Drink Gasoline' ? On Koh Phangan that might be called an apertif.)

I was assigned to shoot Koh Phangan for "46 Places to Go in 2013" for The New York Times.

Shooting on a tropical island - rough duty? Actually, yes - it's work. A bit about my 36 Hours in Koh Phangan.

As with most assignments I got about a weeks notice. I had a 4 day shoot in Malacca prior to so I would have to make my way from Malacca to Kuala Lumpur, then Bangkok to Koh Samui and on to Koh Phangan by ferry. I had 1 day to shoot the assignment and 6 connections to get there. I would travel on a Thursday, shoot Friday and part of Saturday, fly back to Penang Saturday night via Bangkok, edit and caption images Sunday and upload to the NYT's ftp so that they had the images Monday morning, December 24th.
Travel is always a little stressful and in this case I had no room for error. It was peak season and The Times needed the images before the Christmas holidays. A small screw up along the travel chain and I'd have some problems.
I had the article as a guide and made as many phone calls as I could to set up appointments and get a feel for the island. Although I had been to Koh Samui (which is adjacent to Koh Phangan) I had no idea what to expect from Koh Phangan (except it's well deserved reputation for sillyness) but figured with a little planning and some good luck I could find the 'anti-Phangan'.
I arrived at my hotel in Haad Rin at about 8:30pm on Thursday and immediately set about finding a car for the next day's excursions. I had choosen Haad Rin, not because I had hoped to party all night but because I planned to roughly circle the island starting first in the north east corner for sunrise and ending on the southwest end for sunset. Haad Rin was the halfway point and since it was a little larger I figured I would be assured of booking a reasonably priced car for the day and as luck would have it I was able to do just that. So all there was to do at this stage was grab a beer, have some dinner and set the alarm for a 4:30am wake up.
Next morning I poked my head out the door and hear the faint sounds of techno music. The driver shows up (right on time) and we make our way in the dark, past groups of late night (early morning?) partiers and off to our first appointment at Anantara Resort to catch the sunrise.

And it was an amazing sunrise (hightened by the smug feeling that I was up while others were just turning in for the night). So often I'll get up early for a 'non-event' sunrise but thankfully not this time. I gotta say that putting a few images in the bag early on (if even before my first cup of coffee) is a nice feeling.

By 7:30,  was off to my next destination, shooting at the Buri Rasa Resort and along Thong Nai Pan Noi Beach (pictured above).I had made a noon appointment so my next order of business was to search out quiet, local destinations. Wat Khao Tham seemed to fit the bill so I stopped by and had a look around.

(Sculpture depicting an elephant and a monkey making an offering to Buddha. Wat Khao Tham).

 (A resident monk at Wat Khao Tham).

The only problem with Wat Khao Tham is that the name sounded much like the Thai rice porridge khao tom and since I had not had breakfast yet (it was now approaching 11am) I figured it was time to find something tasty.
A roadside stop offering grilled chicken (gai yang), grilled pork (moo yang) and green papaya salad (som tom) fit the bill perfectly. A quick refresher and I was off to my next appointment at The Yoga Studio.
The Yoga Studio is owned and operated by Canadian transplant Melanie Schorr. Melanie told me that when she proposed to move to Koh Phangan with her Thai husband that his family argued against it saying that the island was full of 'druggies and criminals' but from her quiet end of the island they could not have been further from the truth.

Next up I hiked up to the Phaeng Waterfall. Admittedly it was dry season so not much happening at the falls but still a nice place to hike around and enjoy nature.

(Durian picked wild from the jungles).

As afternoon approached I headed to the western side of the island checking out fishing harbors and hanging out briefly with a woman drying fish (below).
Heading to my 4pm appointment at the Kupu Kupu Resort I was surprised to learn that it was still under construction, but since I had made an appointment with the resort's manager they had happily set up a room (one of the images from Kupu Kupu ended up as the lead to the article).

With the sun starting to set I headed to my final destination, Beach Lounge and a walk along Thong Sala Beach.

This is often where it starts getting toughest in an assignment - that point where you've already had a super long day and you see others kicking back and you still have work to do.


Sunset and back to the hotel by 8-ish to grab dinner and download the days images. I felt like I had a pretty good range of images but since I had some time in the morning that I'd head out again with an eye for getting a sunrise landscape from the hilltop at Wat Khao Tham.
Out the door at 6am but no joy. Grey skies gave rise to rain and finally lightening chased me off Wat Khao Tham. I cruised up the coast a bit stopping at the Thongsala Market but really not much happening.  Saturday had been the day  - I felt lucky (and relieved). I returned to see my hotel for the first time in daylight (frankly it looked better at night..) packed up and headed for the ferry to Samui for the flight to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and home to Penang).

I submitted the images Monday (to a nice thumbs up from my editor,). In the end one image ran
but that's how it goes. It's work but I wouldn't have it any other way.

 

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Island Hopping

12 for '12 - A Year in Travel

Saying goodbye to 2012, probably one of my busiest travel years yet. Here are a few highlights..

I grew up in Michigan and I never thought I say this but when you live in the tropics snow is a thrill. This is just outside of Aksaray, Turkey. (More on Turkey and me, here). I am constantly amazed by the depth and diversity in this country.

No travel required to shoot my hometown of Penang for this story in the New York Times.

For the February issue of Singapore Airlines Silver Kris Magazine I headed up to Chiang Mai for a week of adventure. Chuffed when the shot above was the cover for issue. Hiking and climbing - certainly different than my other work in Chiang Mai.

March had me going in what seemed to be a opposite directions all at once. A trip to Siem Reap with my parents was temporarily sidetracked for an assignment in Vientiane, Lao for the New York Times. They call these stories '36 Hours' and in reality I was there for a little under 48 hours. Thanks to the some advanced planning on my part and that Vientiane is a relatively small, walkable city I was able to get what I needed and join the family for the rest of their holiday.

March /April also had me in the US - LA (twice), New York, Michigan and New Mexico. Some work, some holiday - all interesting to see 'my' country as a tourist.

May took me back to Turkey where I hiked through Kars and rubbed shoulders with sheep herders in Van. Look for articles on these journeys in 2013.

In July I headed off to Mexico City (my first time there) for this story for The New York Times. (Confession time - I rarely eat the props when I'm shooting food, but I ate most of this torta and much of the one behind - much to the chagrin of my hosts). MC was a real eye opener and a must return destination.

Returning to Asia I quickly headed off to Cambodia for a series of stories.

August brought me back to Malaysia but in Kuala Lumpur this time for a story about one of my favorite places in KL - Chow Kit Market.  For a guy that digs markets, this was pretty much the dream assignment.

September took me to Koh Samui, Thailand for feature for Travel + Leisure SEA and a food excursion for The Wall Street Journal.  (confession #2 - I ate 4 servings to this desert but I swear it was just to make Chef Alex happy).

Then back to Turkey for this journey and this kind of unbelievable hospitality. Throw in stops in Italy for an upcoming article, commercial work and some stuff back home and it's been an interesting, rewarding year. I'm excited for 2013 but I'm also kind of sad to see 2012 go..

 

 

 

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Island Hopping

Recent work for Travel + Leisure SEA. In November I checked out what was new in my adopted home  George Town. It's still packed full of all the loveable characters that brought me here to begin with but a few more galleries, restaurants, cafes and hotels give it a whole new (in a good way) feel.

I'd like to think that George Town is just improving on the good things it had to begin with. Time will tell but so far so good.

Jump over to the December issue for a feature piece on Koh Samui, Thailand.

Not a hardship post (unless you're shooting a piece in the rainy season). Good food, clean ocean and an amazing artisanal producer of rum. It's a dirty job but someone's got to do it.

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