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I'm Here (and There)..

Hey All - So it may look like I've fallen off the globe but in fact I've been trotting on a fair bit of it. New work for Saveur  and Feast plus work on that Turkey cookbook with a side trip to Georgia for an upcoming story. But, after freelancing for six years now I can say that it's still a thrill to see my work in print. 

In the fall of 2012 I had the great pleasure to travel to Italy with Saveur Senior editor Betsy Andrews where we sampled the finest in Umbria food, wine and hospitality. The article appears in the November, 2014 issue in print here and abbreviated on line here. It is always great to work with Saveur. You can see additional work from me in the India issue as well as images from Italy (above),Chengdu and Turkey for the A Day in Cooking issue.


(above : Scenes from Umbria)

 

February, 2014 saw me traveling to Mexico City and Oaxaca for the October, 2014 issue of Feast. It is great to work for Feast. They give me so much flexiblity to craft the story and the Mexico piece was no exception. This was my second visit to Mexico City confirming that I might just need to spend more time there. Wonderful place.

(above : Tamale stand at sunrise in Mexico City).

(above : Carnitas in Oaxaca)

In August I traveled to Hong Kong for the November, 2014 issue of Feast where I got to meet the legendary Mrs. So of Sing Wa X.O. Sauce fame and basically eat my way across the island in the name of work (hey, somebody's got to do it). The article, written by Janice Leung Hayes

This was my first trip back to Hong Kong in number of years. The article, written by Janice Leung Hayes takes place largely in the Western District which  is famous for its' dried seafood shops. When I lived in Hong Kong in the mid 1990's Western was the end of the line, like a back water town next to the thriving Central District metropolis. That, of course, has all changed now as the expansion of the MRT has made Western the hip place to live. Still it was nice to find pockets of the city that remind of the HK back in the day. 

Above : One of the great pleasures of the trip were my multiple visits to Lin Heung Kui for dim sum. I could not believe how warm and welcoming people were there (these are words I thought I would never utter in regards to Hong Kong). Great dim sum in a setting that is like a throw back to the 1960's. Thanks Janice for that tip!

While working on our Turkey cookbook, I have been following a side obsession with eastern Turkey's wood fired ovens. Swing over to Zester Daily for a slide show to see what's happening in all things gluten. 

Want more? I'm on Instagram! Follow me for the latest. See ya.

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Postcard from Hasankeyf, Turkey

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Postcard from Hasankeyf, Turkey

 

We came to Hasankeyf expecting to stay one night. The city's primary draw is an ancient town set high on rock cliffs. As we drove into town we were greeted immediately by hawkers selling picture books. As we strolled into town bus loads of tourists poured into the single street heading towards the kale eager to buy a souvenier  and get back on the road. But a quick right turn from the tourists and across the bridge spanning the Tigris River and we were in the middle of a herd of sheep heading home from a day of grazing in the upper hills surrounding the town. The next morning we followed the same route, connecting with a group of women heading to upper pastures to milk, by hand, a herd of some 3-400 sheep and goats. From there we were welcomed into their homes, fed handmade cheeses and freshly made ayran and watched them make bread in a tandoor oven. Four days later we are sad to be leaving. Sad too for the future of Hasankeyf and the life of its' residents. Turkey is currently constructing a dam that will flood Hasankeyf. The timing for the flooding is still a little sketchy but construction is well and truly underway. We will return to Hasankeyf, hopefully later in the year. There is so much more to this area that could not take in in such a short amount of time. 

Tamil Nadu for Feast

One of the frustrating aspects of this job is that assignments are always too short. That certainly was the case when I was asked to shoot location stills in Tamil Nadu for Feast Magazine's April issue (sorry, print only for now). Traveling to a new place I feel like I'm just getting in the groove when it's time to pack up and head home. 8 days in Chennai, Kariakudi and Madurai just wasn't enough. Still I have plenty of visual souvenirs until that time I'm lucky enough to get a call back.

(Above : A worshipper at a temple outside Madurai)

(Banana dealers in Madurai's morning market. This market was the highlight of the trip (in a trip with many highlights)).

 (Lunch choices at a 'mess' in Karaikudi)

(flower dealers in Chennai's Koyambedu Wholesale Market)

( a seller of curry leaves, Koyambedu Market)

(proud owner of a vintage Ambassador. Wish I could have brought one of those back).

(above / below - dosa - I ate very well).

 

(The original cubicle - a goldsmith in Chennai).

(street fashion in Chennai)

(Coffee and tea stall, Karaikudi).

(observing Karthigi - the Festival of Lights - Karaikudi).

(Deco style building in Karaikudi). 

For more work for Feast click over here and here.

Editors - if you like what you see, please send me back. There are a lot more pictures to be taken.  

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We're back! Turkey Cooking and Photography Workshop, May 26 - 31, 2014

We had such a great time in September, 2013 that we said 'hey, we''ve got to do this again'. And so we are.

Mark your calendar for May 26-31 (Memorial Day weekend if you're coming from the states) and join us in the fun. For more details checkout our website here. 

Late May is a perfect time to be in Sapanca - think fresh produce in the markets, mild temperatures and great light. We will be adding additional photography instruction sessions as well as plenty of one on one instruction and review. (read what last year's participants had to say ).

(Above : 'the lodge', Zeliş Çifliği, overlooking Lake Sapanca where the workshop is held).

(the light, the LIGHT..!).

Drop me a line at [email protected] if you have any questions. We hope to see you there!

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Food, Fun, Photography, Friendship - Sapanca Workshop, September, 2013

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2013 - A Year in Rectangles

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2013 - A Year in Rectangles

(Above : A vendor gets in an aerobic workout in between customers in Hanoi's Chau Long Market).

Another year passes and I'm again reminded of all the great places my camera has taken me to. Extensive travel and a workshop in Turkey, plus assigments and travel in Sri Lanka, India, Taiwan and Vietnam. A move to our newly renovated shophouse in George Town and work in my 'home town'. Everytime I push the shutter I am reminded how lucky I am to be able to do what I do. Here are a few images from the year. I hesitate to say 'best of' because frankly I am probably the worst judge of what is good or bad in my collection. What I can say about these images is that I hope that when I look back on them in a couple of years that I still remember exactly what I was feeling when I took the picture. I can't say that about every picture I take but some stick around longer than others. Let's see if these do.

(Above : An autumn moon rises over Eminnou, Istanbul)

(Above : Sunset from the 360 Degree Bar at the Bayside Hotel, Penang, Malaysia. Part of a advertising campaign I shot for Penang Global Tourism. Below : A fire burns out of control on a 'super moon' night in Detroit). 

(Above : Taipei, Taiwan for Travel & Leisure SEA. Confession time - I love George Town but I would move to Taiwan in a second if I could. Taipei is probably the most liveable city in Asia and a great jumping off point for exploring Taiwan's deep, deep culture).

(Above : Street food (char koay teow stir fried over charcoal) and a hidden shrine in George Town. Part of a personal project documenting religious shrines that dot the back alleys of George Town, Malaysia). 

(Above : Top - Fishing on the Bosphorus. Second - Barbunia fresh from the Black Sea). 

(Above : The Great Mosque of Diyarbakir on a toasty 42 degree C afternoon).

(Above : The Kadikoy ferry terminal (minus the 'ballon') at sunset. I try to end every trip to Turkey with a sunset ride on an Istanbul ferry. It never gets old). 

(Above : Colombo's Maning Street Market. I spend a lot of time in markets but Maning market blew me away. My time in Sri Lanka was way to short. Such a colorful country and truly lovely people. Hopefully, 2014 will see this story in print). 

(Above : Thaipusam in Penang  part of a customized photo walk. Below - Butchers at a pork shop in Chow Rasta market, George Town). 

 

(Above : top - Banana sellers in Madurai's morning market. Middle : Dressing to match your house (part 1), Rajakkad, Tamil Nadu. Above / Third - A worshipper at a temple outside Madurai, Tamil Nadu. India was such an eye opening experience. I need to find a way to get back there. Look for articles in early 2014 and more images on this blog to follow. Below : Tea shop in Mylapore, Chennai. Tea - but who knew India has such a big coffee culture? Check out my slideshow here in the Wall Street Journal Asia).

So what about 2014? Well, to start with we SOLD A BOOK! So look for more travels in Turkey now through 2015 (yeah). If you are looking for something to do in April join us in Sapanca, Turkey for our second cooking, food and photography workshop. I will also be doing a similar workshop in Penang mid-2014. Watch this page for details.

Beyond that - who in the heck knows? I wouldn't have it any other way. Swing on over to my Facebook page here for quick posts, tips and updates. Or follow me on Twitter @davehagerman. See ya!

 

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Postcard from India

I'm on assignment in Tamil Nadu. Leaving the city of Madurai we stopped the car to check out a wedding celebration that was taking place at the side of the road. A small crowd was gathered opposite and I strolled over to check out what was happening. A boy was getting his hair cut for the first time to mark his first birthday. The barber uses a straight razor to shave the child's head. His hair is given as a gift to the God. The 'gift' will be given again to mark his third and seventh birthday. I suspect it will be awhile before he doesn't run from the room when he hears the words 'hair cut'. 

Road Trip!

In the last two years I've spent a lot of time criss crossing Turkey by car. This last trip, the longest at 4 weeks was possibly the most 'epic'. Part assignment work, part research for future assignments and part just fun. I've said it before but I am constantly amazed at the diversity of the Turkish landscape and the generosity of its' people. A few highlights : 

In the northern Anatolian city of Çorum I spent a morning wandering the old market area where I stopped and chatted (and drank tea) with a knife maker (above) and third generation leather craftsman. Later that morning I stopped off for a simit - probably one of the best I've ever had. One thing lead to another and crack of dawn the next morning I found myself in the bakers' shop watching he and his crew crank out batch after batch. 

I love random encounters. This guy ran up to me in Çorum and asked me to take his picture. After I did I went to show him the pic in the LCD and he walked off without looking. No idea what was going on there.

In Kahramanmaraş a group of kids wanted me to take their photos. As I was shooting them this little girl broke from the pack and ran over to this door. Obviously, she had more esthetic sense than I did. That door is right out of a Hollywood prop room. Wonderful.

Food is often a gateway for me. In Antakya, two ladies sat in an alleyway cleaning beans. I stopped to take a detail of the beans inwhich they promptly invited us into their home (a turn of the century French villa no less) for coffee. As we drank coffee people would poke their heads in and ask about the beans. They showed us around the house and ask I was leaving I wondered to myself if I would invite perfect strangers into my house? 

In the Black Sea town of Sinop, fishing is not solely a male activity. 

On a warm afternoon in Istanbul this man strolled out and after lovingly dusting off his baby blue Vespa sat on the bike with a look of shear delite.

If anything Turkey has taught me how to 'hang'. Until I started going to Turkey I had little desire to sit and drink coffee or tea. Now it seems wrong if I don't spend a least some time each day doing just that. 

Ah, the road. Is there a better feeling than having a tank of gas and no itinerary?

For more from the road in Turkey, check out my galleries here, here, here and here.

A Journey in Turkey for The New York Times

12 for '12 - A Year in Travel

Road Tripping in Turkey, or How to Self-Drive and Survive

In Çorum, Wheat En Route to Bulgur

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What a fantastic week! 8 participants and an action packed 5 days of shooting, cooking, eating and hanging out in beautiful Lake Sapanca, Turkey.

(Above : A stilted 'Ambar' or rice bar, located a short walk from Zeliş Çifliği where the workshop was located.)

By Wednesday I realized that I was so excited by participant work that I almost forgot to take any photos of my own. Of course, I slipped in a few shots at a couple of off site locations where we worked. 

(Above : A barber shop in Göynük. About 10 minutes after this shot was taken I manned the chair myself for a clean, close shave.)

A special thanks to Olga Irez for her fantastic cooking demonstrations and beautiful, delicious dishes and to the family and staff at Zeliş Çifliği for their warm, Turkish hospitality. So nice to have met so many interesting people and to make new friends. Watch this space for future workshops in 2014! 

(Above : (first photo) An SUV ride to a 'yayla' or high plain where we had tea and photographed a self described 'hermit. (second photo) Off road afficanado and overall cool dude. One of the drivers that took us up to the 'yayla'.)

For me one of the the beauties of photography is that everyone has a strength. In many cases participants stood side by side and all ended up with completely different photos that reflected those strengths and translated their visions. Everyone pushed themselves to learn new skills and develop their story telling ability. I could not have been more proud of the results. Check out their work here (note : open in full screen mode and turn on captions for credits and additional links):

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The Transit Point

In the last few weeks Istanbul has been a transit point between Asia, the US and out east. Not a bad place to spend a day or two recovering from jet lag. People have asked me recently if they should go to Turkey given the recent protests. The answer : 'Duh?". Stay out of Taksim Square, not so much due to the protests but that is now painted over (potted plants added in Gezi!), cleaned up and frankly boring. Follow the light and you won't go wrong.

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This Fire is Out of Control

I'm back in the US for a quick trip and had the opportuntity to hang out in Detroit for an evening with fellow photographer and Detroiter Tim Galloway. In addition to his editorial work Tim is also a fire chaser which as it turns out is a nearly full time past time.

Detroit has roughly 100,000 abandoned structures creating what seems to be a cottage industry in burning down buildings for profit (or possibly just fun). It is strange to see block after city block with perhaps on one or two houses still standing. The firefighters we met that night said that basically their job in these cases, where the building was not occupied, is to contain the fire so that it does not spread. This particular fire involved (as I recall) 4 fire companies, but would not make the news. That is how prevalent the fires are. Detroit fire fighters take on more fires per head than any other fire fighters in the country. The odds are that this trend will continue as the city continues to cut back on fire fighting services. Check out the excellent documentary film Burn for the real story. My hat is off to these guys.

(Above : Super moon and house bathed in the glow of the neighboring fire).